SONNYS TOW THINGY DESCRIPTION

If you can lift the front end of your trike up, you can load it alone.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Center punch, Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Scriber, Welder, grinder,

I will start out with a materials list as follows:

ALL DIM’s in INCHES:

 

2” X 2” of thick wall (1/4”) square tubing

20” of 1 1/2” X Ό” Flat Stock

34” length of 4” wide X 1 ½” high channel iron

16” of Ύ” OD cold roll round

15 ½” of Ύ” pipe (measured on ID)

1 3/8” OD flat washer

 

STEP 1: Cutting the Material (use metal chop saw or band saw or for the young, a hack saw)

a. Cut 4” wide X 1 ½” high channel iron (2 pieces) to a length of 16” long & 1 piece 18” long..

b. Cut a 45 degree cut on 1 end of each piece of channel iron (these will be welded

together to form a 90 degree joint later)

c. Cut 4 pieces of Ύ” ID pipe (hinges) to a length of 3 Ύ” .

d. Cut 1 piece of Ύ” OD CRR (cold roll round) to a length of 16” (hinge pin)

e. Cut 1 piece of 2” X 2” heavy walled (1/4”) square tubing 26” long (goes into the REESE hitch

receiver part)

d. Cut 45 deg on each end of the 2 pieces of 1 1/2” X Ό” thick FB (flat bar)

 

STEP 2: Welding the Thingy Together

a. Lay a carpenters square on your concrete garage floor and locate 1 of the channels on its edge to the inside of the square with 45 deg angle towards the 9o degree part of the square. Lay the other piece of channel perpendicular to the first, so as to butt up with 45 angles. Tack weld a few places from one side then the other (tack weld only). Should look like an ‘L’ shape. Put aside to cool.

 

b. Locate 1 of the 1 1/2” X Ό” pieces of FB at a 45 degree angle on the L that ya just finished and tack in place. Flip entire thingy over.

 

c. Locate the other 1 1/2” X Ό” piece of FB at a 45 degree angle on the L (opposite side) and tack in place.

 

d. Layout a centerline, on the flat side, down the middle of the 18” channel. This is where the sections of pipe will be welded on (every other piece is welded to the channel). Here’s where it get a little tricky for some. Take the Ύ” CRR and slide the 4 pieces of pipe on it. Lay this assembly on top, in the center of the centerline and tack weld every other piece to the channel.

Now ya need to lay another centerline down the length of the 2” square tubing. Yep, you guessed it, tack weld the unwelded pieces (2) to the tubing. Alternate the welding from side to side to reduce warping. When done, both pieces should hinge.

Some grinding may be required for clearance but it’s important not to give up until they hinge freely. Weld the washer off center to the end of the Ύ” CRR (creates a stop)

 

When done there should be approximately 9” of 2” square tubing sticking out and this is what goes into the receiver part Well, go ahead and insert it into the receiver. This will allow you to mark on each side for the pin to go through. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRILL COMPLETELY THROUGH or you risk getting 1 side off location. If available, use transfer punch to mark holes. Remove the assembly and drill one side at a time. Deburr the entire assembly and it’s ready for paint.

IMPORTANT: I use a ratchet style tie down through the ‘v’ formed on each side of the channel and suck that puppy (the wheel) up good and tight. In addition, I use a steel, plastic coated cable with loops in it for a safety tie.

If you so desire, this tow thingy can be modified for a quick change that will allow towing of 2 wheelers also (locking the hinge action)